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DARYL_-_BMS
19th July 2006, 14:43
Ian (noodle/doodle) kitkaboodle, PM'd me and asked me to put this thread up for people who aren't 100% sure on how to achieve that 'show car' shine. So I've decided to do a write up of my own personal experiences and what I think works best - i'll be using Meguiars products for obvious reasons!

A long read, but achieving this isn't a five minute scoot around the car as previous posts say - bollocks.

I've grown up with seriously tuned cars my whole life thanks to my parents, and everyday am involved in modifying, repairing and building road and race cars for clients. It's my second job other than a designer, and is my life, and my business.

What I hate most about this role is a brand new car coming in for work and as you've all seen yourself you have a walk up and down a car that's new or a few years old, and the sides, roof and bonnet of it look smeared, scratched and blemished. It looks terrible especially on a car that's having alot of money spent on it or worth alot of money. I saw a F430 recently which looked shattums eggwin. This is down to one thing, owners not caring for their car. Doesn't matter if it's a company car or your 37' roof chopped Chevy hot rod, they need looking after, like pets!

I think I'll split this into two sections. I'll start with the weekend valet, as many of you use your cars everyday communiting and don't have time to polish your cars as much as I do detailing mine, or any weekend ride or show car owner and you all probably can't be arsed to read that far!

1) WEEKEND VALET, 2 and a half hours MAX!

I don't have kids, if I did - *I'd put them on Ebay for labratories to buy. This is for people with the dreaded sprogs, or lazy fekers.

Right, preparation. The best way to start anything is sorting out what you need.
Let's use Nico's car as a prime example when getting it ready to show for Bristol on the evvoAHEM new beetle club stand lol a few months back.

Ingredients:
Two buckets
Sponge - preferably a washmitt
Meguiars Nxt Gen Shampoo
H2O - water
Car
Towels
Polishing Cloths

Nico's car is quite badly swirled, he lives in London and had a few blemishes on it from bird sh*t, car fumes, dead mice and all sorts of ill behavior.

Use a shaded area if possible. If you can't, do a panel at a time. The best way to start with a heavily soiled car is get as much dirt and crud off as possible with either a jetwash or a powerful hose. Spray in all the inner arches, under the wipers, in the seams of the wings, everywhere that is exterior.

Now get two buckets, both with nice, warm (not boiling hot) water, warm enough you could poke your knob in and confident it will not blister. Believe it or not some of my mates use Evian, that's no joke. Anyway, that's expensive, but awesome results none the less! Or even tartier, is tap water, boiled and let to cool - bacteria in the water you see, no joke mates use that method.

Rinse out both buckets. Check there's no holes! One bucket is going to be used for the shampoo and conditioner, and the second will be your rinsing bucket. By now your car should be soaking wet, (resembling an obese man's armpit in Central LA - in Summer) with hardly any traces of serious dirt on the paint - this is what leads to scratches and swirls. A good shampoo I can recommend to anyone is Meguiars Nxt Gen shampoo, it is great for any car, plus it has built in water softeners so great for urban, hard water areas.

Start at the top of the car, middle of the roof. Reason being, if you start at the bottom, you'll be dragging up the dirt - where the majority of it sits on the car. We don't want dirt up the paint do we - more scratches, more dead mice.

Work your way SOFTLY in STRAIGHT, and SLOWLY in lines across the panels checking that the sponge or washmitt isn't soiled. If it is, stop and rinse it in the second bucket properly, and then into the first bucket for more bubble action. You should rinse after every panel. Do one side of the car at a time and rinse. If the weather is warm, remember to keep the whole car wet (as if it was a beached whale) so there's no streaks and dry spotting, this can lead to serious problems.

Aha! Your car is sudded up to the max - better rinse it off then ain't ya! If you have a hose with a changable sprinkler settings on the end, set it to a 'shower' setting. If it's just a hose in general, let the water gently pour over the paintwork, getting rid of all them darn suds.

Drying:
DON'T USE CHAMOIS LEATHERS! Yes I know your thinking "EH?!?" but they are the devil's toilet paper, his arse is rough, so are they. Use a really thick, plush towel. "but they are expensive Daryl!?!" you hail! Not true, a decent shammy weighs in around £10/£15, go to Ikea and buy a few nice bath towels. They cost around £2/3 and are perfect. Reason being the thickness of the towel will pick up any loose dirt that you didn't see with your beady retina. The shammy would grab this dirt and drag it all over the ruddy car.

DARYL_-_BMS
19th July 2006, 14:43
Quick wax for parents and lazy fekers:

OK, the car is dried and looking shiny, shiny like Carole Smiley's gnashers.
If your in a rush because of the kiddie's or your girlfriend's got the horn and teasing you out the window with her new Victoria Secrets corset and her parents are out/kids are out (it happens), use this - Meguiars Nxt Gen Spray Wax.

This stuff is great on the go, and can be applied even when the car is wet. Following the instructions on the bottle give it a squirt a panel at a time thus thinking about how your going to ruin that corset in a short moments time, or I hope the kids don't bring that little sh*t of a mate back to play.

The best way to take off any polish, spray or wax is like this is - using a couple of microfibre towels. A good way would be using the Ikea towel method, then following up over it with the polishing cloths, ensuring a nice clear finish to the paintwork. Have a good look around the car making sure you haven't missed anything.

Wheels: They should be washed after the car has been finished being dried. use a good quality wheel cleaner spray. I use Hot Rims on my chrome wheels, 1) they are fragile rims, and the *spray is not very acidic, and 2) reminds me of a porno flick.

Make sure the wheels are wet before you spray, get the spray working in all the nooks and crannies, and also spray the inner rim. Leave the spray for around 1.32.5 minutes, and rinse thoroughly. then if you can have a sponge/washmitt just for the wheels. Or rinse the existing sponge/mitt ensuring there's no dirt. Wash inside and outside the wheels, rinse and dry with a 'smaller' towel.

I'll get onto the show car look, when my fingers have stopped bleeding.

DARYL_-_BMS
19th July 2006, 18:17
Right the most important part of valeting is over. Now we're moving onto DRUM ROLL---> Surface prepartion. If you've skipped that part and come here straight away, get back up the top now!

Lot's of people I've seen detailing cars is washing them, then going straight for the polish. Fair dues, the car you've just washed may look clean, but there still could be all sorts of dirt still on there. Not doing the above surface prep will result in the car looking 3/4 less perfect than it should. Plus your polishing the dirt into the paint - this isn't clever. I'm not gonna dabble too much below as peeps will steal my secrets and that'll be crap, but it'll get you well on your way to achieving and maintaining a car that will look great at all angles and there's nothing better than cruising a gleaming spotless car around town.

SHOW CAR SHINES - Surface prep & feeding the paint it's vitamins.

Ingredients:

Microfibre Applicator bars and pads
Quik Clay
Quik Detailer/Speed Detailer
Step One Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
Scratch X
Step Two Deep Crystal Polish
Nxt Gen or Gold Class Liquid Wax
Car
Hands
Eyes

Right. Let's use a black car again, Nico's had all the deep swirls etc remember? Now depending on how long they've been living on the paint, they could come off good - or if they've been on there ages and really buried themselves in, like a tick on an Irish Wolf Hound in Spring. Thing is, they will never fully disapear by hand. You'll need some 3M cut polish and a rotary buffer, which in amateur hands can actually set fire to your paint, not cool, cruising bare metal.

Right, we've washed the car down, cleaned it all up, sampled the corset and done the missus good n' proper. She's happy.

Run the back of your hand down each panel, if it's smooth as glass, great. If it's rough, then we'll need to clay it using Quick Clay and Quik Detailer or Speed Detailer. Use a piece of clay around 3cm in diameter and READ the instructions on box.

Wet the panel (working with one panel at a time) with the spray making it wet so the clay doesn't stick against the paint, then rub the clay over the paintwork SOFTLY to remove any dead mice, tree sap, industrial fall out etc. Keep checking the bar, if it's ridden with dirt, swap sides and carry on. Obviously if the bar is dirty all over, then bin it, and pull off another piece, carry on!

As soon as you finish applying the clay you should rub the residue off with a microfibre cloth or a plush towel. When this is done, do the Bruce Lee hand wipe technique, if it's smooth, proceed below - if not then repeat the clay process until smoothed, you lazy feker!

What shall we use first..? WITH PIC

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c219/darylbenfield/IMG_1123.jpg

Hmm, I think the DC Step One Paint Cleaner. This is a jewel of a product, especially on dark cars where light shows all sorts of evil doings, and them darn dead mice.

Using a m&m size portion on your pad/bar, work the product in SOFTLY and SLOWLY into the paint in large circular movements. Go clockwise, then anti clockwise ensuring the product works well into the paint, then straight up, then straight down over what you have already done with the circular motions across the metal oceans. Leave to set for about two minutes. Think about the corset, pretty good eh? Bet you wish you lasted longer though huh? LOL!

Right! Enough day dreaming, crack on with working that product off with the microfibre polishing cloths. Ensuring all residue is picked up and no 'smearing has occured'. Do that on each panel, a bit at a time, working around the whole car.

Next up is my mate Scratch X. This can be a bugger to get off if left on for too long, so work quick! The trick with this product is to work the product in so it almost looks like it was actually disapeared. With waxes they cure into a hase, scratch x cures into transparancy. Don't leave it more than a minute though, otherwise it's really stubborn to get off. Follow the same instructions as per the Paint Cleaner.

Now then! The paint is starting to look a bit brighter, that's because all the crud's been banished! And yes, your car did look that once!

Now it's time for my favourite bit: POLISH.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c219/darylbenfield/IMG_1126.jpg

Now polish is like face moisturiser. Don't laugh it's true. It works the same way a face cream (nothing to do with the corset action finale earlier) does, by applying nutrients, vitaimins, yes vitamins to the clear coat that modern car's have that will bring the paint to a bright, glossy, wet look shine. This one of the most important parts of our journey so far... so don't f**k it up! haha

Get a fresh applicator, and you only want to use about a pea sized amount for a wing, and split the sections of larger panels off so your covering 30cm spaces at one time, apply this extremely lightly, but thoroughly. This should also appear slightly transaprent when it's worked into the paint.

DARYL_-_BMS
20th July 2006, 13:16
Don't let the polish try, leave it about just under a minute and wipe clean, checking for residue, if there is - lose that sh*t dawg!!

The great thing about this Step 2 polish is that you can do however many coats of it you like, and the only thing that'll happen is make your paint better looking and burn calories! On one condition, you apply the product lightly and evenly on all the panels one at a time!

Now the car's really starting to come together. All this graft you've put in now needs to be protected by the elements!

For white, silver, beige cars and black cars with flat, metallic, pearl coats I'd recommend Gold Class Lquid Wax, as it's soul purpose is for creating serious deep looking reflections, and adding serious protection, trust me a car with the above cleaning and surface prep will look better than when you first bought it from the dealers. As these colours are flat anyway, it doesn't make sense to make a white or beige brighter using Nxt Gen, as it really won't do anything out of the ordinary.
As for reds, yellows, blues, limes, greens, burgundys - think colours of the rainbow here, Nxt Gen Tech Wax will really bring these paints alive. Can you believe I nearly bought my cabriolet in white?!? But when I saw my paint in the sun after Nxt Gen, I definatley made the right choice IMO!

We've just used a microfibre applicator bar or pad. Check that the applicator isn't grimy (you should check this constantly when polishing the car, if it's dirty then get another!). If not, flip the badboy other and use the otherside.

Really you should use an unused one, but it doesn't hurt to flip the bar over and use the other side.

Use a m&m sized amount of the wax on the bar/pad and work the same way as you did with the Step 2 Polish. Leave this for about 40 minutes to cure, it should be worked in thus creating a nice white-ish haze.

Have a cuppa and a shag.

Right take that wax off with a couple of fresh unused microfibre towels. After you've taken all the wax off, chuck the car in direct sunlight and have a good mince round the car checking for smears where the cloth may not have picked up parts of the cured wax. These can be banished easily with a tiny squirt of quik detailer/speed detailer.

POLISHING WHEELS:
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c219/darylbenfield/IMG_1127.jpg
OK, the paintwork is done! Wheels should have been washed inside and out and dried. A great all round wheel polish/wax is Nxt Gen Tech Wax. Yup - the same stuff you've used on the paintwork. I don't use any metal cleaners or any of that unless the wheels are BILLET or STAINLESS STEEL. Don't even attempt to use these abrasive polishes on chrome, even Meguiars Metal Polish. Reason being is that chrome is extremely soft, and extremely fragile.

Use a heathly dose of Nxt Gen, around 4 pea sized amounts, and spreadly SOFTLY and EVENLY around the lip of the wheel, working inwards. A good tip is after you've applied teh Nxt Gen to the paint, use a pad as they're more flexible and then do the wheels. The wax on the paint will then cure the same time as the wax on the wheels.

As a precuation, use a few coats of Nxt Gen on the wheels - the water will literally bead off the spokes, awesome behavior.

Then after all that, pray it don't rain! And enjoy the car!

DARYL_-_BMS
20th July 2006, 16:16
DEAD MICE.

If your scratching your bonse trying to work out why there's so many dead mice on Nico's car. Its because he collects them late at night when no one can see him. JOKING!

Reason me and my dad say dead mice, is that we had a Jaguar many years ago for a repair, and when we opened the boot there was a dead mouse in the spare wheel well - lovely. My older sister nearly huey'ed all over the place stamping about screaming "that's gross", me being a little kid, went "wwwwoooo cool!" and Dad said," for f*cks sake!"

It was that corroded dad have to chisel it off as it had made the metal work rusty and had parts of the paint stuck to it's fur. Now when we see filthy cars at race meetings etc, we refer to the interior as "dead mice spec."