Eeza
15th February 2009, 18:31
Well if your puddle lights stop working and the alarm doesn’t go off when you open the door when you have your lights on
then the problem is with switch 4 in the door lock.
This switch tells the ECU in the central locking system that the door has been opened.
The driver’s side door lock is a stunning £97.00 from the dealers, now I am sure you could get one in a local breakers yard
or over the Internet for a more reasonable sum but the hard reality is that you will have no idea of the condition of the switch
until you have taken it off the donor car in a freezing open scrap yard (always assuming you can find one) or tried it in
your own car in the case of a mail order 247 Spares type buy.
Using this method you will have a 100% Guaranteed result for a couple of hours work and the princely sum of £2.00
Ok unlock the car and get in, turn the ignition on and then off to disable the alarm, take the keys
and put them in a safe place no where near the car :D
Right you will need to assemble a few tools to do this job and I would strongly advise that you get some loctite
from your local car shop. This is used to coat the threads on the window fixings (there are 2).
and should avoid any unforeseen issues when you roll the windows down in the future.
Ok prise the door handle cover off with a large flat bladed screwdriver; you don’t need to go daft here
so carefully ease the handle over the securing ridge in a few places.
Once this is off you will be able to see the two securing Cross head screws.
Take them out and then remove the 3 Torx screws along the bottom of the door trim.
All you need to do now is to wiggle the panel of the door. I did this by firstly popping the clips near the bottom
front of the door by the speaker enclosure then gently put your fingers between the panel and the door and
ease the rest off working your way around the internal door cover.
Once this is completely loose you will see that the cover is held in a channel that runs along the base of the window.
It sort of clips into this channel and is quite difficult to remove.
I found the best way was to ease it up gently near the door lock / unlock pins as It seems less tight in this area.
Once a little bit of it is free it should be easy to just ease it in an upwards fashion along the length of the door
When it’s free simply hold the door card and then remove the electrical connections on the rear of the panel.
A word of caution, It’s a lot easier if you have a little help for 2 minutes here as we don’t want to damage the door card do we.
The connectors that activate the Petrol filler release and the Boot were particularly difficult to remove so be
careful, just wiggle away with them until they are all free.
Some of the connectors have little finger catches but some don’t so again, don’t go daft take it easy
Once everything’s free stow the door card safe but not too far away because we need to power the window down to its midpoint…..
Ok have a look at this picture you should be able to clearly see where the fixing holes are for the window.
They are covered by large black rubber covers or grommets about 6cm across and are numbered 1 in this diagram.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/Window fixings.GIF
Prise them out using a small flat blade screwdriver and pop them on the passenger seat.
Now go get the switch from the door card (Its easily removed) and wind the window down
a little (you may need the keys, I didn’t !) until you can get at the two Torx screws.
Remove these completely, but keep them separate from all the other screws as they need to have some loctite.
Power the window up to the closed position and then get some packing tape and secure the window in a few places.
Simply cut a bit of tape 50cm long and place it up the glass and over the top of the door to the other side.
We are just looking to secure the glass in the up position.
Once you have done this wind the window down again but this time the glass will stay where it is. I held onto the glass just in case :D)
At this point we need to remove the fixings for the door lock and the outer key release.
Remove the rubber grommet (1) and then unscrew all three fixings.
Here’s another Picture
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/lock.GIF
At this point pull the door handles from the outside of the car as if you were trying to open the door.
The barrel will pop off the door so remove it and keep it safe, if you look at the handle you will see there is a wire cord
used to pull on the door lock mechanism.
Flick this off with your small screwdriver and the lock is now free from the door handle. It’s Number 1 in the next picture.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/Outer door handle.GIF
Right by now it should have taken about 25 minutes, so I would go and ask for a brew. In the time it takes to get a cup of tea
you will need to remove all the screws holding the black metal panel to the door.
Use the same screwdriver as before (Torx) as the screws are the same size as the window fixings.
Here’s another picture I removed them in the sequence here but I really don’t think it’s a problem if you do it your own way.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/door fixings.GIF
Enjoy a nice cuppa Tea or Coffee your choice its not important
The panel is sealed to the door with a soft foam rubber gasket that holds out water and also stops the panel being removed easily.
So work nice and careful and ease the panel away from the door with flat blade screwdriver.
At some point the panel will pop off the door but because of all the internal bits and bobs it wont come out clean so what we next need to
do is wiggle the door panel out far enough to get at these little plastic push pins.
This image is created from the back of the door so as you can imagine its not at all easy to get at these pins
Use a small screwdriver to push the pins out of the fixings, difficult to explain but easy to do…. Wiggle the door pin off the lock and remove it.
Here are some more pictures and some text to help you through the most difficult part of the whole process.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/mechanism.GIF
The door lock should now be in your hand, Its easy enough to do this job and its only the sheer number of fixings on the door that make
it a longer job than you may first expect.
I found that the door panel rested easily on the floor without putting any strain
on the wiring block at all so there really is no need to undo all those extra connections.
Once the door lock is in your hand turn it over and you should be able to see the problem.
It’s a pretty poor design to be honest and uses a cam moving in a circle that actuates the micro switch.
It looks like the Nylon pin that contacts the plastic covered cam has worn away the plastic and then eventually broken in two.
The real problem is these switches need to have an IP64 rating so they don’t fail due to water.
The switch is made for VW by Burgess and they make millions of the things. The real issue is that of course VW have chosen
a switch that we mere mortals just cannot find in any of our UK component suppliers.
So I have bought a very similar switch from RS Components and intend to re-use the original switch but add my new components to make it better.
THE PART NUMBER FROM RS IS: 472-8314
Its Manufacturers number ID is: V4NCST7Y1
My cam has been worn by the original switch and looks a little like this file photo (mine was not nearly as bad)
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls4.jpg
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls1.jpg
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls2.jpg
Here you can see that the plunger that actuates the micro switch has gone and the rubber seal has been compromised
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls3.jpg
Here’s my new Switch after I carefully removed the top of the switch and recovered the internal bits and pieces, pay particular attention
to the sealing rubber.
Use these new bits to rebuild your switch and then locate the cover back on to the top of the switch.
REMEMBER YOU ONLY NEED TO USE THE PLUNGER AND THE RUBBER SEALS
DONT MESS WITH THE ELECTRONICS AT ALL :D
It took about 45 mins to swap it all over and Araldite up the switch (You don’t need to use Araldite It was just me over engineering it :D )
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/PICT0442.JPG
Using this method you will have a 100% Guaranteed result for a couple of hours work and the princely sum of £2.00
My camera skills are very poor and there are some excellent pictures that I have reused so my thans to WAK on the Audu TT Forum.
Finally as they say a picture paints a thousand words…..
Good Luck and feel free to mail me if you need some help...
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/PICT0452.JPG
then the problem is with switch 4 in the door lock.
This switch tells the ECU in the central locking system that the door has been opened.
The driver’s side door lock is a stunning £97.00 from the dealers, now I am sure you could get one in a local breakers yard
or over the Internet for a more reasonable sum but the hard reality is that you will have no idea of the condition of the switch
until you have taken it off the donor car in a freezing open scrap yard (always assuming you can find one) or tried it in
your own car in the case of a mail order 247 Spares type buy.
Using this method you will have a 100% Guaranteed result for a couple of hours work and the princely sum of £2.00
Ok unlock the car and get in, turn the ignition on and then off to disable the alarm, take the keys
and put them in a safe place no where near the car :D
Right you will need to assemble a few tools to do this job and I would strongly advise that you get some loctite
from your local car shop. This is used to coat the threads on the window fixings (there are 2).
and should avoid any unforeseen issues when you roll the windows down in the future.
Ok prise the door handle cover off with a large flat bladed screwdriver; you don’t need to go daft here
so carefully ease the handle over the securing ridge in a few places.
Once this is off you will be able to see the two securing Cross head screws.
Take them out and then remove the 3 Torx screws along the bottom of the door trim.
All you need to do now is to wiggle the panel of the door. I did this by firstly popping the clips near the bottom
front of the door by the speaker enclosure then gently put your fingers between the panel and the door and
ease the rest off working your way around the internal door cover.
Once this is completely loose you will see that the cover is held in a channel that runs along the base of the window.
It sort of clips into this channel and is quite difficult to remove.
I found the best way was to ease it up gently near the door lock / unlock pins as It seems less tight in this area.
Once a little bit of it is free it should be easy to just ease it in an upwards fashion along the length of the door
When it’s free simply hold the door card and then remove the electrical connections on the rear of the panel.
A word of caution, It’s a lot easier if you have a little help for 2 minutes here as we don’t want to damage the door card do we.
The connectors that activate the Petrol filler release and the Boot were particularly difficult to remove so be
careful, just wiggle away with them until they are all free.
Some of the connectors have little finger catches but some don’t so again, don’t go daft take it easy
Once everything’s free stow the door card safe but not too far away because we need to power the window down to its midpoint…..
Ok have a look at this picture you should be able to clearly see where the fixing holes are for the window.
They are covered by large black rubber covers or grommets about 6cm across and are numbered 1 in this diagram.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/Window fixings.GIF
Prise them out using a small flat blade screwdriver and pop them on the passenger seat.
Now go get the switch from the door card (Its easily removed) and wind the window down
a little (you may need the keys, I didn’t !) until you can get at the two Torx screws.
Remove these completely, but keep them separate from all the other screws as they need to have some loctite.
Power the window up to the closed position and then get some packing tape and secure the window in a few places.
Simply cut a bit of tape 50cm long and place it up the glass and over the top of the door to the other side.
We are just looking to secure the glass in the up position.
Once you have done this wind the window down again but this time the glass will stay where it is. I held onto the glass just in case :D)
At this point we need to remove the fixings for the door lock and the outer key release.
Remove the rubber grommet (1) and then unscrew all three fixings.
Here’s another Picture
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/lock.GIF
At this point pull the door handles from the outside of the car as if you were trying to open the door.
The barrel will pop off the door so remove it and keep it safe, if you look at the handle you will see there is a wire cord
used to pull on the door lock mechanism.
Flick this off with your small screwdriver and the lock is now free from the door handle. It’s Number 1 in the next picture.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/Outer door handle.GIF
Right by now it should have taken about 25 minutes, so I would go and ask for a brew. In the time it takes to get a cup of tea
you will need to remove all the screws holding the black metal panel to the door.
Use the same screwdriver as before (Torx) as the screws are the same size as the window fixings.
Here’s another picture I removed them in the sequence here but I really don’t think it’s a problem if you do it your own way.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/door fixings.GIF
Enjoy a nice cuppa Tea or Coffee your choice its not important
The panel is sealed to the door with a soft foam rubber gasket that holds out water and also stops the panel being removed easily.
So work nice and careful and ease the panel away from the door with flat blade screwdriver.
At some point the panel will pop off the door but because of all the internal bits and bobs it wont come out clean so what we next need to
do is wiggle the door panel out far enough to get at these little plastic push pins.
This image is created from the back of the door so as you can imagine its not at all easy to get at these pins
Use a small screwdriver to push the pins out of the fixings, difficult to explain but easy to do…. Wiggle the door pin off the lock and remove it.
Here are some more pictures and some text to help you through the most difficult part of the whole process.
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/mechanism.GIF
The door lock should now be in your hand, Its easy enough to do this job and its only the sheer number of fixings on the door that make
it a longer job than you may first expect.
I found that the door panel rested easily on the floor without putting any strain
on the wiring block at all so there really is no need to undo all those extra connections.
Once the door lock is in your hand turn it over and you should be able to see the problem.
It’s a pretty poor design to be honest and uses a cam moving in a circle that actuates the micro switch.
It looks like the Nylon pin that contacts the plastic covered cam has worn away the plastic and then eventually broken in two.
The real problem is these switches need to have an IP64 rating so they don’t fail due to water.
The switch is made for VW by Burgess and they make millions of the things. The real issue is that of course VW have chosen
a switch that we mere mortals just cannot find in any of our UK component suppliers.
So I have bought a very similar switch from RS Components and intend to re-use the original switch but add my new components to make it better.
THE PART NUMBER FROM RS IS: 472-8314
Its Manufacturers number ID is: V4NCST7Y1
My cam has been worn by the original switch and looks a little like this file photo (mine was not nearly as bad)
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls4.jpg
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls1.jpg
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls2.jpg
Here you can see that the plunger that actuates the micro switch has gone and the rubber seal has been compromised
http://www.wak-tt.com/ttlockswitch/ls3.jpg
Here’s my new Switch after I carefully removed the top of the switch and recovered the internal bits and pieces, pay particular attention
to the sealing rubber.
Use these new bits to rebuild your switch and then locate the cover back on to the top of the switch.
REMEMBER YOU ONLY NEED TO USE THE PLUNGER AND THE RUBBER SEALS
DONT MESS WITH THE ELECTRONICS AT ALL :D
It took about 45 mins to swap it all over and Araldite up the switch (You don’t need to use Araldite It was just me over engineering it :D )
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/PICT0442.JPG
Using this method you will have a 100% Guaranteed result for a couple of hours work and the princely sum of £2.00
My camera skills are very poor and there are some excellent pictures that I have reused so my thans to WAK on the Audu TT Forum.
Finally as they say a picture paints a thousand words…..
Good Luck and feel free to mail me if you need some help...
http://www.eeza.co.uk/WEB/PICT0452.JPG